동북아역사재단 NORTHEAST ASIAN HISTORY FOUNDATION 로고 동북아역사재단 NORTHEAST ASIAN HISTORY FOUNDATION 로고 Newsletter

Going to the scene of history
Sanggyeongseong Palace and Nearby Balhae Remains
    Kim Eun-gook, Honorary Researcher

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Sanggyeongseong Palace, Raising National Prestige

- In Balhae, All Roads Lead to Sanggyeong



Balhae was founded in 698 and was ruled by 15 kings until it was destroyed by the Kitan invasion in 926. Among them, the founder King Go, the second King Mu, and the third King Mun, laid the foundation for the establishment of Balhae. Following King Mu's territorial expansion, Balhae organized central and local administrative organizations one by one, including five capitals, 15 prefectures, and 62 counties, for efficient governance and management of the expanded areas during the reign of King Mun. The five capitals were Donggyeong (East Capital), Seogyeong (West Capital), Junggyeong (Central Capital), Namgyeong (South Capital), and Sanggyeong (Upper Capital). King Mun moved the capital from Junggyeong to Sanggyeong to keep pace with the status of Balhae, which was growing in strength. Afterward, Donggyeong served as the capital temporarily, but Sanggyeong was the largest capital city of Balhae until its collapse. Come to think of it, Sanggyeong is the northernmost capital among the capitals of Balhae and also among the capitals of countries founded throughout Korean history.


Balhae established external transportation routes which start and end at Sanggyeongseong Palace. These include Silla-do connecting to Silla in the south; Yeongju-do for exchange with Tang Dynasty, Amnok-do connecting Amnokgang River and Sanggyeongseong Palace, Georan-do, which is a traffic route to Kitan, and Ilbon-do to travel to and from Japan. These external transportation routes were established by Balhae for exchange with neighboring countries, and Sanggyeongseong Palace was where all the roads of Balhae converged.



Location and Structure of Balhae’s Sanggyeongseong Palace

- Palace Suited for Empire


Sanggyeongseong Palace is located in present-day Ningan, Heilongjiang, China. The third king of Balhae, King Mun, moved the capital to this place from Junggyeong around 755. The capital was temporarily moved to Donggyeong around 785 but moved again here during the reign of the fifth king, King Seong. It stayed as the capital until Balhae fell. In History of Liao, it is also recorded as Holhanseong, because Sanggyeong Yongcheonbu (city), under the jurisdiction of Sanggyeongseong Palace, is located along the Holhan River, which is the present-day Mudan River. The palace site is composed of the outer city, imperial city, and palace city. The outer city is 4,900 m from east to west and 3,400 m from north to south. A moat was built outside the castle, and traces of turrets remain at the four corners. The outer city had 11 gates. The palace city was constructed in a long rectangle form in the northern center, and the total circumference was 2,680 m. Traces of each turret and moat remain. The palace's main gate is called Obongru, and the pillar and foundation stone can still be found. The first, second, third, fourth, and fifth palace sites are located successively behind Obongru toward the north. The two palaces in the front are the main halls that mainly manage state affairs, and the palaces behind them are the living quarters and sleeping quarters. In particular, a gorae (furrow for heat and smoke to pass in the Korean underfloor heating system) facility for heating can be found in the fourth palace site. A well called Palbo Yurijeong still remains next to the second palace site. In addition, the site of a garden called Eohwawon is preserved, and there is another palace site next to it. Centering on Jujakdaero (broad passage) that runs from the southern gate of the imperial city to the south gate of the outer city, it was divided into Jwagyeong (left citadel) and Ugyeong (right citadel), and these areas were further divided into several units. In the imperial city, there must have been government offices, including three departments and six ministries.

 

Eleven roads are connected vertically and horizontally inside the outer fortress, forming a checkerboard-like layout across the entire city. About ten or more temple sites were found inside and outside the palace. Stone lanterns and stone Buddha images from the Balhae period remain at Heungryungsa Temple. The construction method of the palace and the various relics excavated in it show the universality and specificity of the Balhae culture, which succeeded Goguryeo but culturally exchanged with neighboring countries. Indeed, Sanggyeongseong Palace was a palace suited for the empire.



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Balhae Remains around Sanggyeongseong Palace


The map on the right shows many Balhae ruins in the section from Yeongan, where Sanggyeongseong Palace is located, through the Mudan River to Jingpo Lake. However, most of them are still under surface investigation, which means that more excavation and research will be needed in the future to examine the Balhae ruins around Sanggyeongseong Palace. Meanwhile, excavation was completed to some extent in the following remains. Some of the representative historical sites are as follows;


The first is the Samreungdun Graveyard Site, also called the Samryeongdun Graveyard Site. It is located on the eastern side of the first village that appears when you travel to the north from Sanggyeongseong Palace, passing through Xuanwu Lake and Mudan River. It is 4 km away from Sanggyeongseong Palace. Several tombs have been identified here. Among them, Tomb 1 had already been looted during the Qing Dynasty. In 1990, Tomb 2 and Tomb 3 were discovered near Tomb 1 in Samneungdun. The range of Samneung Wangneung district, including the Samreungdun Graveyard Site, is approximately 1,000m from east to west and about 500m from north to south. It is presumed that there are three or four independent royal family tombs in it.


The second is the Hongjuneujang Graveyard Site. It is located about 10 km northwest of Sanggyeongseong Palace. If you follow the road to the northwest of the protruded area in the northern part of Sanggyeongseong Palace, you will reach Xuanwu Lake. From there, pass through Lianhua Village to the northwest and find the Hongjuneujang Graveyard Site. This site has the largest number of tombs among Balhaes graveyard sites that have been investigated so far.



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Preparing to Return to Sanggyeongseong Palace


I have a distant memory of Sanggyeongseong Palace as I saw it when I was continuing my exploration of the Balhae ruins along the path that King Go, Dae Jo-yeong, took in the course of founding Balhae. It was already dark around Sanggyeongseong Palace when I climbed up Obongru Gate. At the time, I still vividly remember how warm it was and how grateful I was to the moonlight that removed each layer of darkness and revealed the magnificent figure of Balhaes palace. Maybe that is why we can better appreciate the splendor of the thousand-year-old palace under the soft moonlight. The COVID-19 pandemic that has stranded us over the years is now dissipating. I am getting ready to revisit the capital, Sanggyeongseong Palace.